=1\*ROMANIToestimatethefollowstatement(1*20=20points)Wrap

fabrics

are

not

included

in

speciality

fabrics.FFour

primary

structures

are

plain,rib,interlock

and

purl.TThefourprimarybaseweftknittedstructuresinclude:Plainstructure,Ribstructure,Interlockstructure,Purlstructure.TDouble-facedstructuresarethickbuthavebaddimensionalstability.FSingle-jerseyfabricsaremostlyknittedonlatchneedlesinkertopmachines.TDuringthe1870s，thepatentsgrantedtoHenryGriswoldvirtuallyperfectedthehand-poweredsockmachine。TInawarpknittedstructure，allendssuppliedfromthesamewarpsheetnormallyhaveidenticallappingmovemontsbecauseeachislappedbyaguideattachedtothesameguidebar。FTherestposition,clearing,yarnfeeding,knocking-overarethefourpartsoftheknittingactionoftheV-bedhandflatmachine.（keys：true）Themovementofthejackisloopformation,holding-downandknocking-over.FKnittedstructuresareprogressivelybuilt-upfromrowafterrowofintermeshedloops.（keys：true）Thefabrictake-awaymechanismincludetensionboy,wind-upandaccommodationdevices.FThelatchneedlewasthefirsttypeofneedletobeproduced.Itisthecheapestandsimplesttypetomanufacture.FAopenlapisproducedwhenasubsequentunderlapshogsintheoppositedirectiontotheprecedingoverlap,thuslappingthesameyarnaroundthe\Anopenlapisproducedwhenasubsequentunderlapshogsintheoppositedirectiontotheprocedingoverlap.FAnopenlapisproducedeitherwhenasubsequentunderlapisinthesamedirectionastheprecedingoverlaporanunderlapisomittedsothattheoverlapofthenextknittingcyclecommencesintheneedlespacewherethepreviousoverlapfinished.TAclosedlapisproducedwhenasubsequentunderlapshogsintheoppositedirectiontotheprecedingoverlap,thuslappingthesameyarnaroundthebackaswellasaroundthefrontoftheneedle.TThesingle-cylindersockmachinesareusedwidelythanthedouble-cylindermachines.TCamsaresecondaryweftknittingelementwhichmaybeusedtoprovideversatilityoflatchneedleselectionandmovement.TTheloopisbasicstructureofknittedfabrics.TThetuckstitchshowgoodinlongitudinalandhorizontalextensibility.THand-manipulateV-bedridflatmachinecanmake2Knittingsystem(s)atmostinacycle.TThebrushesoftheHand-manipulateV-bedridflatmachinearetoensureneedlelatchesfullyopened.TLinearmodulesofstitchofknittedfabricisl/f.(l-looplength,f-Yarndiameter)TMicromationistheadvantageofelectriccontrolandprogramminginknitting.TThekinkingtriangleangleissmaller,thesmallerbendingyarntensionFThepatternwheelselectingmechanismcanbecarriedoutinroundthreeneedleselectionFChainstructureisrealizedthroughmovingbedFInterlockstructureisformedbytworibiscomposedoffabricweftchange.TStitchesproducedbyvaryingthesequenceoftheneedleloop.TTheeccentricisaformofcrankwhichprovidesasimpleharmonicmovementwithsmoothaccelerationanddeceleration.TInwrapknittingmachines,fourtypesofcamdrivehavebeenemployed:singleactingcams,camandcountercam,boxcamsandcontourcams.TRibrequirestwosetsofneedlesoperatinginbetweeneachother.TSingle-jerseymachinescanonlyproduceonetypeofbasestructure.(單面機)TTypicalstructuresknittedonflatmachineshavecardiganstitches,half-cardiganorroyalrib,andfull-cardiganorpolkarib.TThewayofyarnfeedisconsistofdirectandindirectyarnTExceptforthefewGriswoldtypehand-turnedmachines,allhosierymachinesareoftherevolvingcylindertype。TTwo-coursefishnetisthemostpopularstructure，havingarepeatoftwowalesandfourcoursesdeep.TThelatchneedlehasthemajoradvantageofbeingself-actingorloop-controlled,sothatindividualmovementandcontroloftheneedleenablesstitchselectiontobeachieved.TTheprincipleofdifferentbuttpositionsisemployedintheinterlockcamsystem,wheretwocamtracksareused.TInpost-knittinghandlingoperations，thefabricmustbemaintainedinasrelaxedandtension-freeastateaspossible.TThefourmaintypesoftransferstitchesarePlain(needle)looptransferstitches、Fancylacingstitches、Riblooptransferstitches、Sinkerlooptransferstitches.TTheratioofcam-shafttopatternshaftspeedisusually1:16.TStructureswithuprightloopsinstraightwalesareproducedonlyifthetensionontheyarnoneithersideoftheneedleloopheadisbalanced.TAccordingtothestructureofknittedfabrics,fabricscanbedividedintothewarpknittingfabricandweftfabric.TWeftmachineyarnfeedingmethodisdividedintopositivefeedingandnegativefeeding.TWarpknittingmachinetypesdifferinneedlemovementdirectionandthepullingdirectionangle.TWarpknittedfabricaccordingtothesingle,doubleneedlemachinesaredifferent,canbedividedintosingle-facedanddouble-facedfabric.TWeftcam,thecontrolincirclesofthecamareusuallycalledpressureneedle(curvedyarn)cam.TThetwomajorclassesofwarpknittingmachinesareTricotmachinesandRaschelmachines.TWeftknittingmachineformedacircledividedincompleteclearandincompletecastoff.TFatflowerorganizationdividedintothesinglefatanddoublefat.TPlain,rib,interlock,purlfourbasicstructure,lateralextensionofthebestisribstructure.ThelongitudinalextensionofthebestisPurlstructure.T=2\*ROMANIIExplaintheglossary(4*10=40points)1、Acourse（線圈橫列）Acourseisapredominantlyhorizontalrowofneedleloopsproducedbyadjacentneedlesduringthesameknittingcycle.2、Thesinkerloop（沉降弧）Thesinkerloopisthepieceofyarnthatjoinsoneweftknittedneedlelooptothenext.3、Theneedleloop(圈干)Itisanuprightnooseformedintheneedlehook.Plainstructure(緯平針組織)Itisproducedbytheneedlesknittingasasingleset,drawingtheloopsawayfromthetechnicalbackandtowadsthetechicalfacesideofthefabric.StitchdensityStitchdensityreferstothetotalnumberofloopsinameasuredareaoffabricandnottothelengthofyarninaloop.6、Aclosedlap（閉口線圈）Aclosedlapisproducedwhenasubsequentunderlapshogsintheoppositedirectiontotheprecedingoverlap,thuslappingthesameyarnaroundthebackaswellasaroundthefrontoftheneedle7、Stitchcamsettings（彎紗三角）此題絕對不考，書上沒有定義，百度也沒有Thestitchcamsarelocatedinslotsandtheymayberaisedorloweredtoadifferentsettingpositionbymovingthestudalongtheslot.Gauge（機號）Thegaugeismeasuredononeneedlebed,usuallyinthesamemachinearesettothesamegauge.9、theheldloop(握持線圈)Aheldloopisanoldloopthattheneedlehasretained.Itcanonlyberetainedbyaneedleforalimitednumberofknittingcyclesbeforeitiscast-off.10、Thefloatstitch（提花組織）Answer:Afloatstitchiscomposedofaheldloop;oneormorefloatloopsandknittedloops.11、WrappingWrappingisamethodofproducingvertically-orientatedpatterningwithwarpthreadsonasinglejerseyweftknittedbasestructure.12、TheguidesWarpguidesarethinmetalplatesdrilledwithaholeintheirlowerendthroughwhichawrapendmaybethreadedifrequired.13、AWale（線圈縱行）Awaleisapredominantlyverticalcolumnofintermeshedneedleloopsgenerallyproducedbythesameneedleknittingatsuccessiveknittingcycles.14、Warp（經編）Theuseofwarpknittingknotringwithlongitudinalmethodsintothefabric.Inwarpknitting,everyloopinacourseisusuallycomposedofaseparateyarn.15、Thetuckstitch（集圈組織）Atuckiscomposedofahelploop,oneormoretuckloopsandknittedloops.plushItsplushrestaurantsandcafeswerethecapital'spoliticalsalon,awashwithintelligenceagentshopingtosnooponconversations.Transfer（移圈）Transferistoachieveshaping,producedadesign,orchangethestitchstructure.sliverorhigh-pileknitting(長毛絨）Itissingle-jerseymadeonacircularmachinehavingsliverfeedswherethestock-ordope-dyedsliversaredrawnfromcansatgrandlevel.=3\*ROMANIIIShortAnswerQuestions(10*2=20points)1、TheKnittingactionofthebeardedneedles（鉤針的成圈過程）TheKnittingactionofthebeardedneedleshasbeenillustratedinFig.3.1.Dependinguponthemachine,theneedlesaresetverticallyorhorizontally.Theneedleshavethedisadvantageofrequiringapressingedgetoclosethebeardedhookandenclosethenewloop.Thepressermaybeintheformofabar,blade,vergeorwheel,witheitherthepresserortheneedleremainingstationarywhilsttheotherelementmovestowardsit.Anotherfeatureofbeardedneedleknittingisthatindividualloopformationhastobeachievedbyaloopformingelement.Thisleadstoamorecomplicatedknittingactionbutalsoprovidesforamoregentleandcarefulloopformation.2、Pleasedescribethebasicknittingactionofneedle.（簡述織針的基本成圈過程）1)Theneedleisintherestposition,withthepreviouslyformedloopheldonitsstemandcoveredbythehook.2)Theloopisclearedfromtheneedlehooktoalowerpositionontheneedlestem.3)Thenewyarnisfedtotheneedlehookatahigherpositionontheneedlestemthanthepositionofthepreviousloop.4)Theyarnisformedintoa“new”loop.5)Thehookisclosed,enclosingthenewloopandexcludingandlandingtheoldloopontotheoutsideoftheclosedhook.6)Thenewloopisdrawnthroughtheheadoftheoldloop.Simultaneouslytheoldloopslidesofftheclosedhookoftheneedleandiscast-offorknocked-over.7)Theoldloopnowhangsfromthefeetoffullyformednewloopandtheknittingcyclestartsagain.3、TypesofhosieryHose,whichhavealeg-lengthextendingabovetheknee;Tree-quarterhose,whichareofknee-length;Men’shalf-hose,whichareusuallyintwoleg-lengthrangesof7-9inchesand11-15inches;Stocking,whicharedesignedtofittheleguptoorabovethekneeandmayormaynotbeself-supporting;Tights,particularlyinfinegauge,whicharetermedpanty-hoseintheUSA.4、Pleasesummarizetheimportantdevelopmentsincircularhosierymachinery.(1)Theintroductionofpower;(1)Theuseofholding-downsinkers;(1)Theautomaticcontrolofmechanicalchangesandoperations;(1)Achangeofmachinerydesignfromrotatingcam-boxestorevolvingcylinders;(1)Thegrad