服裝設計創意外文翻譯文獻服裝設計創意外文翻譯文獻(文檔含中英文對照即英文原文和中文翻譯)譯文:服裝設計中的創意性靈感摘要研究目的：本文的研究目的就是評估服裝設計過程中的創造性靈感源。它旨在分析服裝設計行為和服裝設計過程的早期階段，設計靈感的本質是什么，如何收集靈感來源以及它們是如何影響服裝設計的創造力和原創性的。研究方法：目前，已經有很多的學者對成衣服裝設計進行了而一系列的實證研究；實地觀察、半結構化訪談和約束和半驅動型設計任務。這一實證研究方法，可以有效的使用在傳統的知識獲取方法不足的情況下，特別需要對一個行業進行一個廣泛地了解，比如：時尚界，不只是要對單個人或公司進行實證研究，要盡可能選擇更多的案例進行研究。研究結果：識別服裝設計過程中的靈感來源的主要類型，并提供每來源的相關信息。認識到這些靈感來源可以幫助設計師來創建有創意的設計元素。為了培養創意，靈感的來源在整個創意階段的設計過程中，以及在服裝設計研究計劃的早期階段發揮了重要的作用。創新性：本文突出強調了創造力和創意靈感來源在服裝設計過程中的作用。對服裝設計師和服裝公司都提供了很多實際的幫助。關鍵詞:服裝設計；服裝；創造性思維；設計安排；設計管理服裝設計是一個包含視覺和觸覺的感官設計眾所周知，設計包括兩件事情:工藝創造過程和產品展示，這兩者之間的關系就好比動詞和名詞的關系。作為一個設計問題解決方案的過程,它是靈感的來源，并通過計劃、組織以實現一個最終目標。而產品是其計劃的、最終設計的結果。服裝就是應用設計的一個例子，即使是最激動人心的、最初的構想也必須向人們展示其實用目的。雖然我們已經意識到一些藝術是純粹的，即“藝術至上藝術”，但是，世界上大多數藝術作品設計的最初目的都在于其實用性。設計作為一個工藝過程，應當考慮和計劃實現某一特定的目標，并適時進行創新。從本質上講，設計過程的步驟與順序同樣應當考慮產品的實用性。這些步驟與管理規劃的過程非常相似。人為設計的產品和服務可以分為兩大部類：感覺和行為。感官設計是通過感官而獲得的，可以將其分為視覺、聽覺、嗅覺、觸覺和味覺的獲得。行為設計是有計劃的行動。然而，許多產品的創作過程都包括感官設計與行為設計兩個方面，因為設計靈感需要通過感官獲得并通過行為來解釋。例如，一場時裝表演既包括感覺設計也包括行為設計。服裝設計的靈感來源服裝設計師從哪里獲得新款式設計的構想和靈感呢?答案即靈感無處不在。實際上，任何視覺和觸覺上的感官體驗都可以是服裝設計靈感的源泉。通過電視，設計師可以體驗五彩繽紛的全球娛樂世界。在看電影的過程中，設計師則能感受世界各地的藝術與生活方式。通過國際經銷，電影觀眾可以通過有設計靈感的服裝接受新時尚。博物館展品、藝術節目展示、世界事件、博覽會、劇院、音樂、舞蹈和旅游都是時裝設計師的設計靈感來源。過去的時尚也是他們一個豐富的設計靈感來源。雖然，對于新的和刺激人心的事物，服裝設計師們需要時時保持警惕，但他們從來不會忘記過去，通常情況下，他們會采用新的方式去利用舊的東西。如上所述，一組服裝設計的靈感來源多種多樣。靈感來源往往與社會“時代精神”（也稱之為“時代思潮”）息息相關。在對當前時尚了解的前提下，不斷尋找各種創意和靈感源泉，例如博覽藝術品和書籍，去巴黎和米蘭旅行并進行考察，參觀博物館，或行走于各國觀察不同的人群等。我們發現，當直接接觸創意來源時，設計師們是最具創造力的。另一方面，在時尚界，服裝設計的創意過程包括兩種基本方法:(1)實物能激發服裝設計的創作過程；(2)概念化的服裝設計過程，如源于宇宙的藝術、大自然或產品。眾所周知，高調時尚的“名譽”設計師提出了這樣一個概念模型，為了使其更具有創造力和原創性，我們可以稱之為主旋律。強調以設計為先導的產業，其設計思想的來源包括先前設計的產品、人工產品、自然物品與自然現象。就服裝設計來看，之前的設計風格、面料和其他配件在設計師的靈感來源中發揮著十分重要的作用。盡管人們已經廣泛認可，大部分的設計過程都是在修改先前創意理念的基礎上完成的，深受編織物的啟發，服裝設計師們便開始尋找設計的新款式和風格。在這種情況下一個樣式通常為起點的技術材料的可能性。例如，彈力纖維面料的發展激發了設計師們設計緊身服裝的靈感。文獻出處：Mete,Fatma."Thecreativeroleofsourcesofinspirationinclothingdesign."InternationalJournalofClothingScienceandTechnology18.4(2006):278-293.原文:ThecreativeroleofsourcesofinspirationinclothingdesignFatmaMeteAbstract:Purpose-Toassessthecreativeroleofsourcesofinspirationinvisualclothingdesign.Itaimstoanalysesimple,generalaccountsofobserveddesignbehaviourandearlystagesoftheclothingdesignprocess,whatisthenatureofdesigninspiration,howsourcesofinspirationaregatheredandhowtheyaffectthecreativityandoriginalityinclothingdesign.Design/methodology/approach-Aprogressiveseriesofempiricalstudieslookingatready-to-wearclothingdesignhasbeenundertaken;insituobservation,semi-structuredinterviewsandconstrainedandsemi-constraineddesigntasks.Thisempiricalapproachusedethnographicobservationalmethods,whichiseffectiveinsituationswhereconventionalknowledgeacquisitionmethodsareinsufficient,whenbroadunderstandingofanindustryisneeded,asinthefashionindustry,notjustacasestudyofasingleindividualorcompany.Findings-Identifiesthemajortypesofideasourcesinclothingdesignandprovidesinformationabouteachsource.Recognisesthatthesesourcesofinspirationhelpdesignerstocreatedesignelementsandprinciplesofindividualdesigns.Inordertofosteroriginality,sourcesofinspirationplayapowerfulrolethroughoutthecreativestageofdesignprocess,andalsointheearlystagesoffashionresearchandstrategiccollectionplanning.Originality/value-Thispaperhighlightstheroleofsourcesofinspirationanditseffectincreativityandoriginalityintheclothingdesignprocess.Offerspracticalhelptoclothingdesignersanddesign-ledclothingcompanies.Keywords:Fashiondesign,Clothing,Creativethinking,Designcalculations,DesignmanagementIntroductionSourcesofinspirationanditspersonalinterpretation,visuallyandtechnically,playanimportantroleinthedesignprocess,inincreasingcreativity.Clothingdesignstudiesandthecreativeroleofdesigninspiration,duringtheearlyinformalandactualclothingdesignprocessesisopentoscientificinvestigationlikeaestheticallydrivendesignsinotherdomains.Studyingcreativefashiondesignasprocessandproductisseenmoreproblematicthanotherdesign-ledindustries,astheinteractionbetweenthedesignelementsandprinciples,materialproperties,adaptationandmodificationofdesigninspirationarecomplex.Clothingdesign,asavarietyofaestheticandfunctionaldesignprocesses,sharesmanycharacteristicsofengineeringdesignprocess.Researchandobservationarecriticallyimportantinthefashionbusiness.Byresearchingandobserving,designersgatherbackgroundinformationfordesign,includingstudyingcurrentandfuturefashiontrendsandtrytopredictwhatthemajorityoftheircustomerswillwantintheforeseeablefuture.Inordertokeepupwiththechangingworldoffashion,fashionawarenessshouldbecomesecondnaturetoeveryclothingdesigner.DesignandclothingasavisualandtactilesensorydesignItiswellknownthatdesignistwothings:processandproduct,asverbandnoun.Asdesignproblemsolutionprocess,itisresearching,settingthesourceofinspiration,planning,organizingtomeetagoal,carryingoutaccordingtoaparticularpurposeandcreating.Asproductitistheendresult,anintendedarrangementthatistheoutcomeofthatprocessorplan.Clothingisanexampleofapplieddesign,eventhemostexciting,originalideamustshowawarenessofitspracticalpurposeandenvironment.Werealisethatsomeartispure,"artforart'ssake"butmostcreationsinthedailyworldareforapracticalpurposeanduse.Designasprocessisplanningtomeetagoal,andthusappliestoeverythingintentionallycreatedforapurpose.Thestepsandorderoftheprocessareessentiallythesameregardlessoftheendproduct.Thesestepsareverysimilartomanagementasaplanningprocess.Designasmanmadeproductandservicefallsintotwomajorcategories:sensoryandbehavioural.Sensorydesignisperceivedthroughthesenses,andisclassifiedasvisual,auditory,olfactory,tactileandgustatory.Behaviouraldesignisplannedaction.Manyproducts,however,includeaspectsofboth,becausedesignmaybeperceivedthroughthesensesandtheninterpretedbehaviourally.Afashionshow,forexample,includebothsensoryandbehaviouraldesigns.ResearchmethodologyandfindingsTheimportanceofsourceofinspirationandtheirroleincreativeclothingdesignhasbeenlittleunderstoodand,therefore,rarelyreceivedattentioninthisindustry.[6],[7],[8]EckertandStacey(1998,2000,2003)studiedknitweardesigncase,whichsharesmanycharacteristicsofcomplexengineeringprojectsandasanexampleof"practicaldesign"inafastmovingandhighlycompetitivemanufacturingindustry.Theirworkincludedalargeethnographicstudyoftheknitwearindustry,whichproducedadetaileddesignprocessmodelandananalysisofthecausesofcommunicationproblemswithindesignteams.[15]M?kirinne-Croftetal.(1996)triedtoexplainthefashiondesignprocessintermsofquantummechanicsandpsychoanalysisandseedesigncreativityastheultimatemystery;theirdescriptionofthedesignprocessissimplistic.Theauthorhasundertakenaprogressiveseriesofempiricalstudies,basedonobservationandinterviews,lookingatready-to-wear(RTW)clothingdesign;insituobservation,semi-structuredinterviewsandconstrainedandsemi-constraineddesigntasks.Thisempiricapproachcombinesethnographicobservationalmethodswiththeknowledgeanalysistechniquesofartificialintelligence.Itiseffectiveinsituationswhereconventionalknowledgeacquisitionmethodsareinsufficient,whenbroadunderstandingofanindustryisneededasinthefashionindustry,notjustacasestudyofasingleindividualorcompany.Inthisresearch,thecreativeroleofsourcesofinspirationinvisualclothingdesignbynoviceandexpertclothingdesignerswasassessedthroughempiricalresearch.Assubjects,16talentedclothingdesigners,11university-levelfashiondesignstudentsinFashionDesignDepartmentatDokuzEylulUniversityandfiveprofessionaldesignersparticipatedintheexperimentcarriedoutinthisresearch.Thefirstgroupofsubjectsincludedadvancedfashiondesignstudents,seventalentedstudentsselectedfromthethirdandfourthyearofundergraduatestudies,andalsofourstudentsofpostgraduatestudies,whoalsoworksasafreelanceorparttimeassistantdesignersintheclothingindustry.Thesecondgroupwascomposedoffiveprofessionaldesignerswithaminimumof5yearsofexperienceinclothingindustry.SourcesofinspirationinclothingdesignWheredoesthefashiondesignergetideasandinspirationfornewstyles?Theansweriseverywhereandeverything.Anythingvisualandtactile,infactsensual,canbeasourceofinspirationforagarment.Throughtelevision,thedesignerexperiencesallthewondersoftheentertainmentworld.Infilms,thedesignerisexposedtotheinfluencesofallthearts,andlifestylesthroughouttheworld.Becauseconsumersareexposedtomoviesthroughinternationaldistribution,filmsprimetheiraudiencestoacceptnewfashionsinspiredbythecostumes.Museumexhibits,artshows,worldhappenings,expositions,theatres,music,danceandworldtravelareallsourcesofdesigninspirationtofashiondesigners.Thefashionsofthepastarealsoarichsourceofdesigninspiration.Whilealwaysalerttothenewandexciting,fashiondesignersneverlosesightofthepast,theyuseoldthingsinnewways.Asstatedtheinspirationforagarmentwithinacollectionorforanentirecollectioncancomefromaninfinitevarietyofsources.Sourcesofinspirationareoftenlinkedtothesocial"spiritofthetimes"alsocalledthe"zeitgeist".Understandingthestateofcurrentfashionandsearchingforideasandsourcesofinspirationinvolveslookingatartobjectsandbooks,goingontripstoplaceslikeParisandMilan,visitingmuseums,watchingpeopleonstreetsandgoingoncountrywalks.Designersaremostcreativewhentheyaredirectlyexposedtothesourcesofideas.Ontheotherhand,ithasbeenobservedinthefashionindustrythattherearetwofundamentalapproachesinthecreativeclothingdesignprocesses:(1)material,thusfabric,inspiredclothingdesignprocess;and(2)conceptualclothingdesignprocess,suchasseveralthemesoriginatedfromtheuniverseofarts,natureorproducts.Itisknownthatthehigh-fashion"name"designerstypicallydevelopaconcept,alsocalledtheme,fortheircollectioninordertobemorecreativeandoriginal.Themajortypesofideasourcesindesign-ledindustriesarepreviousproducts,artifacts,naturalobjectsandphenomena.Incaseofclothingdesign,garments,fabricsandtrimsaspreviousproducts,playanimportantroleinsourcesofinspiration.Although,thereisabroadrecognitionthatmuchofthedesignproceedsbymodificationofpreviousideas,incaseoffabricinspiredclothingdesign,designerssearchfornewformsandstyleswithnewlydevelopedorinventedmaterials.Forexample,thedevelopmentofelasthenfabrics,suchasLycra,inspireddesignerstofigure-huggingsilhouettes.ConclusionsAnythingvisualandtactile,infactsensual,canbeasourceofinspirationinfashiondesign.Designideasdonotsimplymaterializeoutofthinair.First,thedesignerdoescarefulresearch,butwhatmakesadesigner'scollectionspecialandoriginalishisorheruniqueinterpretationofdesignsources.Therefore,inordertobemorecreativeandoriginalthesourcesofinspirationplayanimportantroleinclothingd