1、MERCHANDISING(SHOES) COURSE （跟單之鞋業(yè)課程）（跟單之鞋業(yè)課程）HANDBAG MANUFACTURE COURSE（鞋業(yè)制造課程）Designed by Zoe L& FCONTENTSSpecifications (分類）oDressing oFlat close shoesoFlat sandalSpecifications (分類）oHeel oWedgeoSlipperSpecifications (分類）oBootso10” heighto14” heightShoes manufacture from development to delive

2、ry Red tag sample（大版或紅牌版）Revised sample（修改版）Quote price（報價）Proto sample（出初版）Pattern （出紙格）Sketch Drawing，（圖紙）PP sample（產(chǎn)前版或綠牌版）Place order（正式訂單） sourcingplan（工廠內(nèi)部物控、采購原料，計劃）Process analysis（工藝分析）PP meeting（產(chǎn)前會議）cuttingpre-process arrange（開料，前工序安排） Painting（油邊）Assembling（成型）Sole（底部）Upper Gluing（面部）Ski

3、ving（鏟皮）Delivery（出貨）Packing（包裝）cleanfix shapetrimming（清潔，定形，剪線）Procedures for Shoes manufacture （制造流程）（制造流程）Step 1:Prepare for production(第一步：生產(chǎn)準備）第一步：生產(chǎn)準備）o That is prepare working, like sourcing raw material and trim, trim counter, physical and chemicals testing for material and hardware, procedur

4、e planning and analysis.（準備生產(chǎn)原料，生產(chǎn)原料的化學(xué)、物理測試，生產(chǎn)計劃，生產(chǎn)工藝分析）oRaw material/Trim: Leather, PVC,PU, Fabric, Nylon，Bonded leather （生產(chǎn)主原料/配料有皮，人造革（PVC/PU),布料，尼龍料，再生皮等）oReinforcing material: Suede, Plastic, Nonwoven fabric, leather paper，Nylon, webbing，paper board (補強物料:牛筋皮，雜膠料，不織布，皮糠紙，牛筋尼龍，織帶，紙皮）Step 2: Cut

5、ting（第二步，開料）（第二步，開料）oAccording to B.O.M and compare the fact operation to work out the material usage, then arrange the die cut mould, match the directions to cut (if produce leather handbag still need match grain, color and mark a label, then wrap it by lot), etc, please refer below photos for more

6、 details . (根據(jù)物料清單和對比實際運作中損耗來算出物料的用量，然后安排打刀模，開料時要分方向來開料，開皮料時，還要配紋配色來開料。皮料開好后。要將配好套的物料編好號碼。防止生產(chǎn)過程中弄混淆，另外開的物料要小心保存，如布料是不能折，特別是絲印料要分隔開以免絲印色弄臟料，更多祥情請見以下圖片）Step 2: Cutting（第二步：開料（第二步：開料-畫好的皮料）畫好的皮料）Step 2: Cutting（第二步，開料圖片（第二步，開料圖片-畫皮料）畫皮料）Step 2: Cutting（第二步，開料圖片（第二步，開料圖片-將畫好的皮料開裁）將畫好的皮料開裁）Step 2: die c

7、ut mould (刀模）刀模）Step 3:Pre-process arrangement（第三步：前序工作安排）（第三步：前序工作安排）oSome parts of shoes must be produce before others procedure, such as embossing, assembling and sewing. （有些零部件是可以先做，如電壓，打釘或其它應(yīng)車的小部件）Step 3:Pre-process arrangement(第三步：前序工作安排圖）第三步：前序工作安排圖）Step 4:Skiving（第四步，鏟皮）（第四步，鏟皮）oskive panel

8、to reduce thickness for improving hairy or handfeel or easy working oSkive edge to reduce thickness for easy working and good shape， but pls note, for some area which will be under very high force, after skiving edge, maybe need to add very strong thin nylon reinforcement. （鏟皮分為大鏟和小鏟）鏟皮分為大鏟和小鏟） 大鏟是將

9、整個裁片都鏟到統(tǒng)一厚度，有時皮沒有里布，整個裁片的皮底太毛。需要做大鏟是將整個裁片都鏟到統(tǒng)一厚度，有時皮沒有里布，整個裁片的皮底太毛。需要做大鏟處理。將毛底鏟干凈些。另外有時裁片太厚身，要改進手感，需將整個裁片鏟到大鏟處理。將毛底鏟干凈些。另外有時裁片太厚身，要改進手感，需將整個裁片鏟到合理厚度。）合理厚度。） 小鏟，小鏟就鏟邊位，小鏟，小鏟就鏟邊位， 是為了生產(chǎn)過程中易做是為了生產(chǎn)過程中易做(如折邊，包邊等工序），且外形美觀如折邊，包邊等工序），且外形美觀要將皮邊位鏟薄到適當厚度。有時要留意受邊部位不能鏟的太薄或鏟后需加托要將皮邊位鏟薄到適當厚度。有時要留意受邊部位不能鏟的太薄或鏟后需加托

10、一層一層薄的尼龍補強。薄的尼龍補強。Step 4:Skiving（第四步，鏟皮圖）（第四步，鏟皮圖）Step 5:Gluing(第五步：擦膠水）第五步：擦膠水）oFor some parts need to gluing before folding, sewing and assembling. (有些裁片，部件，五金，在折邊，車縫和安裝工序前有些裁片，部件，五金，在折邊，車縫和安裝工序前是要擦膠水工作的。一是使做工方便，另一個是使鞋壽命加長）是要擦膠水工作的。一是使做工方便，另一個是使鞋壽命加長）oGlue have yellow glue, powder glue, milky glue

11、 , 447 glue, A glue, red glue, etc (膠水分為粘性較強的膠水，如黃膠、447膠，A膠，紅膠，乳膠粘性次之，粉膠粘性最弱）oFor different raw materials, need to use different glue. Such lining, need to use powder blue, PVC with fabric backing which used as reinforcement, can use milky glue, other reinforcement , use strong adhesive glue. Hardwa

12、re use red glue ( 不同材料要用不同特性的膠水，里布要通常用粉膠，用其他膠水易滲膠。補強料膠水通常用較強的膠水。起針、收尾線頭用較強的A膠， 五金常用紅膠等，布底的PVC料可用乳膠）Step 5:Gluing (第五步：擦膠水圖示）第五步：擦膠水圖示）Step 5:Gluing (第五步：擦膠水圖示）第五步：擦膠水圖示）Step 6:Painting（第六步：油邊（第六步：油邊）oLike some panel raw edge of handbag (except for folding, jean seam) need to stain some oil. That mea

13、n paint a layer oil, oil color may be match or contrasting color.(有些原邊是需要油邊效果（但折邊和車反除外）Basic operation for painting（基本油邊操作）（基本油邊操作）oPrimer application (打底）oPaint application （油邊）oBuff（打磨，拋光）ContinueBasic operation for painting（油邊基本操作）（油邊基本操作）o Second paint application, The customer will require the

14、edge painting effect, but the different customer also have different standard. But one point is same that is the edge stain will soften and stick when the temperature is high such as in the summer. so in the season we need to add the proper anti- agent. On the other hand, in the winter, we need to a

15、dd the anti-crack substance duo to the edge painting is easy to crack（不同的客人對油邊有不同的要求，主要看不同品牌的價位來定。另外邊油在夏天時要耐高溫和冬天時要耐低溫。所以有時因季節(jié)性改變要向邊油中加一些防爆防粘劑。冬天加防爆劑，夏天加防粘劑）Basic operation for painting（油邊基本操作圖片）（油邊基本操作圖片）Step 7:Sewing（第（第7步：車縫步：車縫）oThe stitching is very important in the shoes production process due

16、 to the complicated structure. before cutting ,so a plan is need to make how to assembling the related component. set the stitching method and quality standard. If the production flow is reasonable, it directly influent the productivity and product quality. (因鞋類復(fù)雜的結(jié)構(gòu)，車縫工作是很重要的。在開大貨物料前，要就根據(jù)所批的樣版來計劃如何

17、車縫，定下車縫方法和車縫標準。如果車縫流程得當?shù)脑挕？赡艽蟠筇岣呱a(chǎn)效力，并影響產(chǎn)品的質(zhì)量）1.Flat Bed Sewing Machine（平車）（平車）oMachine sewing garments and others products involve sewing together two or more pieces of flat goods which the top tread interlocks with bobbin thread. It is easy has puckers when sewing some thin material as only a sing

18、le layer of material delivery by bottom feeding.（平車主是靠底部來推動送布料，所以車較厚身料是易起皺，起泡。一般來說，來車是用來車較薄身較輕的里布。）Flat Bed Sewing Machine（平車圖）（平車圖）2.Upper and Lower Feed Sewing Machine（同步車）（同步車）oThe sewing theory is same as flat sewing machine, different is the method of delivering material. Upper and lower feed s

19、ewing machine is synchronizes the feed of upper and lower layers of material by top and bottom feeding mechanism while sewing inflationary materials and latently movable materials of medium and heavy weight. The sewing effect is very smoothly but sewing the thin material effect is worse than flat se

20、wing machine.(同步車是同平車一樣的道理來車原料，不同的是同步車上下同步來送裁片，同步車用來車較厚身和表面不平伏的物料，同步車不適合車薄身，輕身的布料）Upper and Lower Feed Sewing Machine（同步車）（同步車）7.Computer Sewing Machine（電腦車）（電腦車）8. Assembling（裝配五金）（裝配五金）oAssembling includes all the hardware on the shoes, such as installing magnetic, hardware Logo, eyelet, stud, cha

21、in, O-ring, buckleand so on.（裝配包括安裝所有的五金，如磁鈕，雞眼，撞釘，鏈條，圓環(huán)，扣等等）Assembling（安裝示意圖）（安裝示意圖）Assembling（安裝示意圖）（安裝示意圖）9. Quality checks（質(zhì)量檢查）（質(zhì)量檢查）oInclude first product checked, in-line checked and final inspections base on “PP sample”. If there are something is defect, QC should inform all relevant colleag

22、ue and fty to solve it immediately.（質(zhì)量檢果，包括初檢，制程檢，成品檢，檢驗標準是根據(jù)所批的PP版，如發(fā)現(xiàn)不良，QC要通所有相關(guān)工廠人員和本司相關(guān)人員一同來解決問題）10. Packing（包裝）（包裝）oProcedure include trimming, cleaning, fix shape, stuffing, hanging hangtag, packing, label, storage etc.(此流程包括修剪線頭，清潔，定形，包裝，掛掛牌，貼標簽，入庫，檢驗OK后出貨）Packing（包裝）（包裝）oStorage（倉庫庫存）Shoes Specific Term（鞋業(yè)分類）Shoes terms（專用術(shù)語）impression外觀in pair配雙inner booty鞋舌內(nèi)套inner box label內(nèi)盒標inner box內(nèi)盒inner sole中底kid skin小羊皮knee boot長靴knife刀子lace鞋帶lace hole鞋帶孔lacelock眼扣lace loop系帶鞋lac