1、毛織英文簡介一)織法二)單邊 四平 珠地 掛毛 元筒1X1令士有底毛拔花(單) 谷波縫盤( Linking )Plain JerseyFullneedleHalf cardiganstitchIntarsia Tubular SeedsstitchFloat JacquardRuffle 或 Ripple 或 Ottoman HalfMilano SemiDoubleKnitLinks 或 Lynx stitch 或 PurlFull Milano 或 Double KnitRack Zigzagstitch拔花(雙)挑吼坎毛打花曼花珠地1X1 單/雙Rib CableFull cardiga

2、n Walk stitch Double Jacquard Tub Jacquard Reverse Jersey PlaitingTuck stitch Fancy stitchRacked half cardigan1x1Ribsingle/double漏眼 黏邊對位不符領貼扭紋挑撞抽筋 線頭沒有拉眼( Mending )Drop Stitch Incorrect Yarn Selvage not straightWrong position to linkingUnevenseamTwistcollarWrongpositionofneedleandpointUnwantedloopso

3、nstitchIncorrect hand stitch count Ribcollarofv-pointnotmatchPoorstitchAbsence trimmingLoopsoncollarstitchoutoftrimming爛邊跳線鋤高Incorrect CourseBroken Selvage Run off PuckeringSkip stitchUnevenyarntensionStitch on the Higher position五)錯毛料 錯色紗其它Wrong materialPoor done of mending, objectionable mendingWr

4、ongcolortomending釘珠 字碼 配色 衣(平)車噴槍洗水機直間BeadingcoatingTensionMatchLinking Machine buttoning machine Electric sewing machineSpraygunwasherAuto steam boilerVerticalstriped繡花縫盤機照燈 燙斗 干衣機EmbroiderySelf tight Looper overlockingHemming machine Button holing machineInspecting lamp WinderIroner ExtractorTumbl

5、e六)插袋反骨縫 前袋底抓毛款式InsertpocketOutside loopingWithshirringontopofsleeveSealpocketInsidebrushed橫間暗袋扭骨HorizontalstripedFlat lock bodyTorque七)褲 帽半胸貼 夾里輔料Waist belt Stitch both sideSlipover / Vest PantHoodElastic waistbandHalf placket Lining圍巾飛嘜/吊嘜套頭衫 開胸連衣裙 半截裙 ScarfTop stitchPullover CardiganDressSkirtBac

6、kkeyhole膊棉 副嘜 貼紙青古色爪釘 真殼鈕帆布 人造皮革Shoulder pad Care label Fastener tapeStickerDull dark pewterAnti-BrassDull nickelNail headsSuspender buckles Alloy button & bucklesReal shell button Combed fabric CanvasBleached piece goodsFlanneletteDenimSyntheticLeather拉煉 主嘜 掛牌 丈斤 克古銅 急鈕雞眼 織繩 掛耳 石棉 ZipperBacknklabel

7、Swing ticket 或 HangtagElasticCtn twill tape Dull anti-copper Anti-dark cooperSnap button Eyelets Trousers hook DrawstringAbs button AsbestosImitation shell button piecegoods八)( Measurements)身長 胸闊BodylengthHigh point of shoulderBodywidth褲腳闊HPS腳闊(裙擺彎度)Leg openingBottom width (Sweep meas curve)九)裙長(裙頭下

8、度) 裙寬(裙頭下 8“度)上坐圍闊(裙頭下 4“) 后坐圍闊(裙頭下 8“度)裙頭闊(拉度)裙頭高脾圍(浪底下 1“)( Neck )SlitBody length(b.w) Bodywidth(8”b,w)High hip (4“b,w) Back 1/2 hip(8“ b,w) W,b width (relaxed ) W,bheigthThigh(1“b,crotch)約克高前/后浪深(裙頭底度)袋位( 側縫線度)袋位(裙頭底度) 袋完成尺寸小腿圍(浪底下 21“度)褲長(沿線度)膝圍(浪底下 14“度)YokeheightFt/Bkrise(B,w.b)Pocket placemen

9、t (From side seam)Pktplamt(B,w.b)PocketfinishCalf (21“ b, crotch) Inseam length Knee(14“ b, crotch)圓領Round nk / Crew nkV領V-nk樽領Turtlenk大牛領Cowlnk船領Boatnk大圓領Scoopnk反領Collaroutnk小企領Mockturtlenk西裝反領Shawlnk谷波領Ottoman nk水波領/拋領十)袖形(Sleeve)Rufflenk方領Squarenk長袖Longsl短袖Shortsl蝙蝠袖Dolmansl出袖Capsl袖頂十一ShoulderFol

10、d sl Sleevecap無袖Sleeveless平膊Set-in馬鞍膊SaddleshoulderL夾十二SampleL-shape Raglan sl直夾StraightAH初辦Initial/Protospl覆辦Revised/Dapspl生產批辦大辦Production approval spl / P.P splSalesmanspl船頭辦ShippmentsplWavy起耳仔, 走蛇, 起波浪Barloop耳仔Hairy(洗水)起毛Plsbringtospc尺寸Overlockingthread钑骨線Needlestreak針路Gapping縫線太松而致抹坑Tack stitch

11、釘合, 挑合Lustrous起境Slub/ 毛粒Knots結頭Stretchup戚起Shoulder tape膊頭帶Lining里布Wrinkle/Puckering折皺,皺痕pulls毛粒Mending mark補衣痕Man-fibrethread魚絲線Hook&Eye烏蠅扣Scallop Crochet手鉤荷葉邊Mainlabel s/b hand tack 4 cornerCB seam s/b hand stitch I/O looping seamPls back & repeat stitch in every 4-5 beads for securityBtnsettingmar

12、ks/bremoveElasticJoin/OverlapPattern s/b match at side seam十四(Type of yarn)Spun yarn短織紗線Symmetrical對稱Handfeel is slightly flimsy 手感薄Flatten壓平Harsh手感粗糙Bulk大貨Pilling起毛粒S/B=MustbeD.T.MDyetomatch)配色Hiking吊起Stickup/ 有起伏Fray布頭擦傷Armpit夾底Shinymark起境Bubble/ 谷氣Twist扭骨Barre花毛Flaringout喇叭口W/Owavy絕不行起波浪Braloop膊位

13、啪鈕Monofilamentthread主嘜必需手釘四角4-5粒珠鎖針丈巾接駁處側骨線要對間Filamentyarn長織紗線Cardedyarn一般紗Semi-combed yn半精紗Combedyarn全精紗Rawwhiteyarn原白紗Bleached yarn漂白紗Singedyarn燒毛紗Woolenyarn粗紡紗Worstedyarn精梳毛紗Core-stunyarn包芯紗Stretchyarn伸縮紗線Spandex/Lycra/Elastic彈性紗線Crimped yarn卷曲線紗Fancyyarn花式紗Bulkedyarn蓬松紗Slubyarn粗紡節紗Noilsilkyarn廢絲

14、紡紗70% lambswool 20% angora 10% nylon 兔毛混紡70% lambswool 20%mohair 10% nylon 么唏混紡55%silk15%angora30%nylon絲混紡一)物料,布料問題1/Rips,HolesorCut裂痕,破洞,剪破Brokenofyarn斷毛2/Drops,Tuckstitches漏針縫, 壘針defectivefabric步次品3/Snags, Pulls & Knots裂口,抽絲,結頭Wrongdesignofcolor錯設顏色4/Slubsmorethan1/8“1/8“Excessivecrocking色澤度不符, 色澤

15、磨損5/Needlelines定型, 針痕Razorcuts因修剪而損壞6/Permanent creases / Fabric死折痕Stopmarks停機痕7/Bowing / Torque, Stripe + 1拱/斜紋(1“)Foldmarking皺布痕8/Bowing/Torque,Stripe1-1/2拱/斜紋(1.5“)Torquing/Seamtwist縫合扭骨9/Barremarks/Thick&Thin橫路紋(粗紋紗)RTVmaterialdefects退回廠房因物料問題10/Def.NapDirecOrGrain毛方向不對(順逆毛)Pilling起毛粒11/EMBdefec

16、t繡花質量不良Defectiveleather皮革次品12/Ribbottomdefect下罷羅紋差Fabricflaws面料瑕疵13/After treatment abrasion處理后磨損Defective print印花次品14/Stitchdistortion針縫歪曲二)色差問題1/Shadewithingarment 一件衣服內的色差2/Shadedtrim配料/配片色差3/Shadeinteriorparts內部, 里部色差Fading褪色RTVshadingdefers退回廠房因色差問題Donot use(Fold marks)皺痕4/Dyestreaks染光痕Shade no

17、t to standard色差不符標準5/Shading gmt to gmt衣服與衣服有色差Do not use (Delamination)污染6/Bleeding脫色污染Wrong shade code分色錯誤7/三)Bleach stains漂白污染污染問題1/Oil. Stns 1/8“ + Diameter油漬RTVcleanliness退廠因污染2/FlyForeignyarn飛毛Thread contamination因線而成的污染3/Excess contaminate in gmt大片臟污, 污染Lint contamination布與布間污染4/Undesirable o

18、dor/ 不行承受的臭味Spot cleaning abrasion清洗污漬后磨損5/Unremove soabar ticket貼紙撕開后不干凈Misc.stains不同性質污漬6/Wet garments衣服洗后, 未干Gumresidua粘后剩余污漬7/四)Chalkmarks粉筆痕裁片及組合1/Missingparts(Major)欠配片或漏縫2/Missingoperation漏工序3/Parttwist.Distored,placket有扭骨, 歪曲門襟4/Misalign,part1/4“1/4“5/Belt loops defective( 耳仔)6/Linking not m

19、atching里布縫不正確7/Linkingshrunk里布縮小過度8/Stripesnotmatching不對條9/Checks not matching不對格10/Piping not matching不對牙邊或包縫11/Wrong size / Type s/p錯規格/型膊棉12/Poorlyshapedlapels( 大反領)13/Donotuse (Remove sash)腰帶可移動14/Missmatchparts裁片或部位不對稱15/Wrongs/p(Minor)錯膊棉16/Donotuse(Slvtoolong)袖太長17/Missingparts(Minor)欠配片或漏縫片1

20、8/Missingbeads/pearls/etc.漏釘珠19/Donotuse(Attachscarf)領巾要釘在一起20/Unevenfronts前片不對稱21/Defectivepearl/beads/etc.珠片次品22/Loose bead / pearl / sequins珠片釘縫散23/Patternnotmatched圖形不配24/RTVcomponents/assembly退回廠房25/Defectivevelcro毛鉤(魔術貼)有問題26/Wrongsh.padplmt(Woven)肩棉位置錯27/Smilingpockets袋口不平服28/Loose/missingcoi

21、ns標袋松漏29/Wrong sh. Pad plmt ( knits )肩棉位置錯(針織)30/Poorworkmanship工藝不良31/Garment hiking up衣服吊骨( 前中或后中吊起)32/Fusingdelamination粘合沾污33/Incorrectbeltplacment縫合問題腰帶位錯1/Openseam縫線爆口2/Unevenhems下擺不平均3/Dbl.Stng.Gap1/8“+雙針扭線距離 1/8“4/Needleholesorcuts針孔, 剪破5/Gmt. Part caught in seam一局部步片誤縫合6/Seams twisted pucke

22、r or pleated縫骨扭/起皺/打折7/St.tension.Toolooseortight縫骨線太松或太緊8/Stitchnotbacktacked縫線沒有回針9/Rawedges裂口或破口10/Stitchingdensity針步太密或不正確11/Poorqualityseamrepair回條之縫線質量不良12/Piecing/Joining of wrong color包邊頭尾不齊或露毛邊13/Monofilament or wrong color線粗細不對14/Donotuse(Lininglong)里布太長15/Hem not blind stitched下擺沒有挑腳機縫合16

23、/Brokentopstitch斷面線17/Incorrect basting stitch疏縫針步不正確18/Facingnottacked底貼沒回針縫19/Hi/Low pocket凹凸袋口20/Donotuse(Repairslv)修補袖骨21/Plaid dist/incorrect cut裁格仔布不正確22/Lining hem incorrect里布縫頭不正確23/Bartackproblems套結問題(打棘)24/Sewnin waste車縫時混有廢物25/RTVseams&stitch退回廠方26/Crackstitchshowing縫隙外露(爆線)27/Dart/pleat

24、sewn incorrect/feeder damage后整折,挑縫合正確1/Burnedorscorched燙焦痕2/Hard Finishing ( Overpressed )整燙過度3/Stretched or distorted拉緊過度或歪曲4/Excessivewrinkles印痕太多5/Donotuse(Shineserious)嚴峻起鏡6/Permanentwrinkles死皺痕7/Pressedpoorly (Major )整燙不良(嚴峻)8/Donotuse(FabricHand)手感不合要求9/Donotuse(Rewashpress)返洗后燙10/Excessivethr

25、eadsuntrimmed線頭多,沒修剪11/Improperfusing粘合不正確12/Pressed poorly ( Minor )整燙不良(稍微)13/Incorrectpressing整燙不正確14/RTVfinishing&pressing退回廠因整燙問題15/P.Htoohigh酸堿值太高16/Changedirtyplasticbag更換臟污膠袋17/Re-setting fabric placket嘜頭,牌,箱嘜返車胸貼1/Hangtagomitted欠掛牌2/H/T insecurely attached掛牌沒釘牢3/WrongH/Tused錯掛牌4/Wronglabel/

26、content/care錯嘜頭/成份/洗水5/Labellocation1/4“嘜頭位置偏差 1/4“6/Label sewn monofilament嘜頭縫線不適合7/Labelthreadnotmatching嘜頭縫線顏色不配8/Label sew uneven, puckered嘜頭不平服9/Harshorstifflabel嘜頭手感不好(粗糙/僵硬)10/Label omitted or insecure欠嘜頭或縫不牢11/Wrongsizeonlabel嘜頭上錯尺碼12/Defectivelogo嘜頭部份設計不正確13/Damagedlabel嘜頭損壞14/Wronghangers錯

27、衣架15/Wrong carton錯箱尺寸16/Wrongstyleonbag膠袋印錯尺寸17/Wrong H/T placement掛牌位置錯誤18/Extra button omitted欠士啤鈕19/Wrongspelling/groupname20/Wrong button bag placement 21/Notsortedcorrectly22/Wrongbarcode#23/Barcodenotreadable24/Failed scangrade bar code25/Holesfromh/t26/Defective print 27/Mixed style (M/P)28/O

28、pen / short poly bags29/30/Wrong sugg. Retail price 31/Scotch tape discoloration 32/Over packed containers33/Wrong flasher used 34/Wrong size stripe used35/Labelnotsymmetry八)口袋,門襟問題1/Wrong location 1/4“2/Shadedpoorly3/Set or sewn crocked 4/Wrong size or shape 5/Slanted pocket flaps 6/Unbalanced pock

29、ets 7/length8/Pleat at corner of pockets9/Crookedplacket10/Lump at corner of flaps 11/Holes at corner of pockets12/Puckering around pockets九)領/袖口問題1/Puckeredcollars2/Collar pts not uniformed3/Puckered / crooked topstitch4/Twistedcuff5/Uneven cuff st bottom6/Insufficient elasticity 7/Looponcollar8/RTVcollars&cuffs9/Puckered/poorneckshape10/Unfinishcollarpoints十)衣服鈕扣問題1/ ButtonsMissing2/ Buttonsmisaligned3/ Buttons not sewn securely4/ Wrong size, Type or color5/ Buttonholeomitted掛牌內有錯字/串錯字士啤袋錯位置掛牌條形碼錯誤條形碼不能閱讀(印